Eat 2017: Counties

The Counties

An Poitin Stil

2323 York Road, Timonium, (410) 560-7900, thestilltimonium.com $$, L, D, BR, P, R

A nicely appointed sit-down place where you can get an Irish stew or a quesadilla while enjoying the live music and the fireplace. Strong drinks.

Ananda

7421 Maple Lawn Blvd., Fulton, (301) 725-4800, anandarestaurant.net $$$, L, D, BR, P, R

Refined North Indian dishes from the owners of the Ambassador Dining Room. Ananda has an additional farm-to-table edge over its sister restaurant—it uses herbs and other ingredients from a nearby Howard County farm.

Andy Nelson’s Barbecue

11007 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsBBQ.com $$, L, D, P

’Bama transplant and Baltimore Colt Andy Nelson put down roots and slow-developed a slow-cook barbecue masterpiece. They will truck to your home (via catering) if you can’t come to them, but you should go to them.

Bill Bateman’s Bistro

7800 York Road, Towson, (410) 296-2737, billbateman.com $$, L, D, P

Well-suited to supply all of your Buffalo wing needs—just ask the Towson University students perched on every nearby stool. Also, sliders. Other locations include Havre de Grace, Reisterstown, Parkville, and Severna Park, among others.

Black Kettle

801 Frederick Road, Catonsville, (410) 747-7687, blackkettledining.com $$$, L, D

Somewhere in between a stint in ballet and opera singing, head chef and owner Kevan Vanek found his way into the culinary arts and eventually opened up this Catonsville restaurant that boasts “elegance, class, and comfort” with an extensive sandwich and burger menu and small plates.

Bluestone

11 W. Aylesbury Road, Timonium, (410) 561-1100, bluestoneonline.net $$$, L, D, P, R

Excellent seafood dishes with an extensive fish selection. The menu changes seasonally (and the fish market changes daily), a reward for frequent visitors.

Key

  • $: Average entree price is at or below $10.
  • $$: Average entree price is $10-$20.
  • $$$: Average entree price is $20+.
  • B: Breakfast.
  • L: Lunch.
  • D: Dinner.
  • BR: Brunch on weekends.
  • BYOB: The restaurant allows you to bring your own booze.
  • P: On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
  • OUT: Outdoor dining in season. It could be anything from a few tables on the sidewalk to a dedicated deck.
  • 10 p.m.: Serves food after 10 p.m. on a regular basis. Many restaurants serve until 11 p.m. on Saturdays, but spots that get this designation go beyond that.
  • R: Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
  • DV: Delivery for a limited area, including restaurants that deliver through a web-based service such as OrderUp or Amazon Prime Now.

Bombay Blue

7514 Ritchie Highway, Glen Burnie, (443) 883-3547, bombaybluesbistro.com $$, L, D, BR, P

Modern Indian menu, with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, as well as a few local influences (see: the Maryland crab papad cone).

Cafe 1137

7216 Windsor Mill Road B, Windsor Mill, (410) 265-5497,facebook.com/pages/Cafe-1137 $$, L, D, P

Combining quick and delicious, cheap-and-greasy take-out model found in plenty of Baltimore neighborhoods with a dash of foodie culture finesse, Cafe 1137 is best known for its massive, filling platters (fried or grilled steak, chicken, crab, and a variety of fish with garlic herb rice corn and crab side) and ambitious specials (thanks to its fried whiting sub, we gave it “Best Specials” in last year’s Best of Baltimore).

Café Troia

31 Allegheny Ave., Towson, (410) 337-0133, cafetroia.com $$$, L, D, R

A serious Italian cafe founded by a Naples family offering all the classic Italian stuff, including osso bucco and braised beef with gnocchi. Extensive wine list and old-world ambiance.

Citron

2605 Quarry Lake Drive, Pikesville, (410) 363-0901, citronbaltimore.com $$$, L, D, P

Describing itself as “casually elegant,” Citron puts a slight French twist on its menu. Escape from the city proper for a few and take advantage of the outdoor seating with the lakeside view.

Chap’s Pit Beef

5801 Pulaski Highway, (410) 483-2379, chapspitbeef.com $, L, D, P

This roadside pit beef stand has been honored by the likes of Guy Fieri and the New York Times. In addition to the local staple, you can get turkey, pork, barbecue chicken, and ribs. Pair the meat of your choice with fries, baked beans, or cole slaw. Second location in Aberdeen.

Key

  • $: Average entree price is at or below $10.
  • $$: Average entree price is $10-$20.
  • $$$: Average entree price is $20+.
  • B: Breakfast.
  • L: Lunch.
  • D: Dinner.
  • BR: Brunch on weekends.
  • BYOB: The restaurant allows you to bring your own booze.
  • P: On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
  • OUT: Outdoor dining in season. It could be anything from a few tables on the sidewalk to a dedicated deck.
  • 10 p.m.: Serves food after 10 p.m. on a regular basis. Many restaurants serve until 11 p.m. on Saturdays, but spots that get this designation go beyond that.
  • R: Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
  • DV: Delivery for a limited area, including restaurants that deliver through a web-based service such as OrderUp or Amazon Prime Now.

Costa’s Inn

4100 North Point Blvd., Dundalk, (410) 477-1975, costasinn.com $$$, B, L, D, P, R

A staple Dundalk crab house that ships crab cakes all over the country. The low-key atmosphere and neighborhood feel attract more than just locals.

Cunningham’s

1 Olympic Place, Towson, (410) 339-7730, cunninghamstowson.com $$$, D, R, P

The fourth outpost of the Bagby Restaurant Group balances upscale sensibilities with a welcoming vibe. You can spend money comfortably and be sure that, whatever you opt for, you’ll receive a worthwhile dish with respect to both taste and portion.

Cunningham’s Cafe

1 Olympic Place, Towson, (410) 339-7750, cunninghamscafe.com $$, B, L

Located just below Cunningham’s (see above), this cafe offers locally sourced, handcrafted breakfast and lunch along with small-batch roasted coffee. Breads and pastries are made on site.

Fazzini’s Taverna

9811 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 667-6104, fazzinis.com $$$, L, D, P, R

Fazzini’s moved from a 40-seat BYOB to a full-service restaurant that seats more than 200 in 2014, so its brick-oven pizzas, scratch-made pastas, and entrees must be doing something right.

La Food Marketa

2620 Quarry Lake Drive, (410) 415-0606, lafoodmarketa.com $$$, L, D, BR, P, R

Inventive twists on South American cuisine in a warm, inviting space. The tiered menu ranges from small shareables to full-size entrées.

Key

  • $: Average entree price is at or below $10.
  • $$: Average entree price is $10-$20.
  • $$$: Average entree price is $20+.
  • B: Breakfast.
  • L: Lunch.
  • D: Dinner.
  • BR: Brunch on weekends.
  • BYOB: The restaurant allows you to bring your own booze.
  • P: On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
  • OUT: Outdoor dining in season. It could be anything from a few tables on the sidewalk to a dedicated deck.
  • 10 p.m.: Serves food after 10 p.m. on a regular basis. Many restaurants serve until 11 p.m. on Saturdays, but spots that get this designation go beyond that.
  • R: Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
  • DV: Delivery for a limited area, including restaurants that deliver through a web-based service such as OrderUp or Amazon Prime Now.

Goldberg’s New York Bagels

1500 Reisterstown Road #211, Pikesville, (410) 415-7001, goldbergsbagels.net $, B, L

Original old-world bagels baked in a new-world-style kitchen. It has almost two dozen varieties of bagels to choose from. A full and eclectic breakfast and lunch menu is also available with a surprising number of spreads and lunch items.

Grace Garden

1690 Annapolis Road, Odenton, (410) 672-3581, gracegardenchinese.com $$, L, D

In a strip mall near Fort Meade, Chef Chun Keung Li does up delectable authentic Sichuan goodness like braised pork belly with mui-choy and homemade tofu mousse, consistently earning Best Of awards in the process.

The Greene Turtle

408 York Road, Towson, (410) 825-3980, thegreeneturtle.com $$, L, D

It’s a big menu from a big outfit (there are more than 40 locations in seven states and D.C., including outlets in Owings Mills and at BWI Airport), so expect plentiful drinking grub.

Hightopps Backstage Grille

2306 York Road, Timonium, (410) 560-7101, hightoppsbackstagegrille.com $$, L, D

Like a little bit of a Fells Point party bar right next to the Maryland State Fairgrounds. There’s music and a party on the patio on the regular—with pizza and pitchers, of course. Drink specials will keep you seated all Saturday.

HomeSlyce

9400 Snowden River Parkway, Columbia, (443) 491-4000, homeslyce.com $$, L, D, P

In 2015, the Baltimore-based pizza place opened up its fourth location (the other three are in Canton, Federal Hill, and Mount Vernon) in Columbia. In addition to its premium pizzas, try the titular “slyce”—a pizza rolled up almost like a calzone.

Key

  • $: Average entree price is at or below $10.
  • $$: Average entree price is $10-$20.
  • $$$: Average entree price is $20+.
  • B: Breakfast.
  • L: Lunch.
  • D: Dinner.
  • BR: Brunch on weekends.
  • BYOB: The restaurant allows you to bring your own booze.
  • P: On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
  • OUT: Outdoor dining in season. It could be anything from a few tables on the sidewalk to a dedicated deck.
  • 10 p.m.: Serves food after 10 p.m. on a regular basis. Many restaurants serve until 11 p.m. on Saturdays, but spots that get this designation go beyond that.
  • R: Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
  • DV: Delivery for a limited area, including restaurants that deliver through a web-based service such as OrderUp or Amazon Prime Now.

Indian Delight

622 Frederick Road, Catonsville, (410) 744-4422, tajrestaurant.com $$, L, D, P

Family-owned and serving up curry and tandoori for more than 17 years, Indian Delight offers nice white-tablecloth ambiance and reasonable prices.

Kyodai Rotating Sushi Bar

1 W. Pennsylvania Ave., Towson, (410) 339-7500 $$, L, D, P

The conveyor belt of fresh sushi just turns round and round, and you pick up whatever you want, paying for each plate according to its color. Kaiten, it’s called. Why settle for stationary sushi?

Linwoods

25 Crossroads Drive, Owings Mills, (410) 356-3030, linwoods.com $$$, L, D, R

A serious restaurant with an open kitchen and aspirational menu items such as caramelized sea scallops with grilled duck salad. Extensive wine list and decent beer selection, too.

Little Spice

1350 Dorsey Road, Suite L, Hanover, (410) 859-0100, littlespicethairestaurant.co $$, L, D, P

A little, airy oasis serving authentic, well-presented Thai cuisine that’s a quick drive from BWI Thurgood Marshall Airport.

Manor Tavern

15819 Old York Road, Monkton, (410) 771-8155, themanortavern.com $$$, L, D, BR, R, P

Farm-fresh greens (some from the garden out back), locally sourced ingredients, and an elegant country-squire vibe accompany the Guinness-braised short ribs and country-fried pork chops. Craft beers also, and a big wine list.

Key

  • $: Average entree price is at or below $10.
  • $$: Average entree price is $10-$20.
  • $$$: Average entree price is $20+.
  • B: Breakfast.
  • L: Lunch.
  • D: Dinner.
  • BR: Brunch on weekends.
  • BYOB: The restaurant allows you to bring your own booze.
  • P: On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
  • OUT: Outdoor dining in season. It could be anything from a few tables on the sidewalk to a dedicated deck.
  • 10 p.m.: Serves food after 10 p.m. on a regular basis. Many restaurants serve until 11 p.m. on Saturdays, but spots that get this designation go beyond that.
  • R: Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
  • DV: Delivery for a limited area, including restaurants that deliver through a web-based service such as OrderUp or Amazon Prime Now.

Mari Luna Mexican Grill

102 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 486-9910, mariluna.com/mexican-grill $$$, L, D

After more than a decade, Jaime Luna’s original blue-ceilinged Mari Luna storefront restaurant in Pikesville has remained the go-to for football-sized burritos, tacos, and enchiladas, not to mention killer black-bean soup, shrimp in garlic sauce, and perhaps the best tamales around.

McFaul’s IronHorse Tavern

2260 Cromwell Bridge Road, Parkville, (410) 828-1625, mcfaulsironhorsetavern.com $$$, L, D, BR, P

Far more than happy-hour refreshment after a long week. Fresh, seasonally influenced entrees like lobster pot pies, house pizzas, and shepherd’s pie are elevated by local ingredients and thoughtful presentation.

The Milton Inn

14833 York Road, Sparks, (410) 771-4366, miltoninn.com $$$, L, D, BR, P, R

Celebrating its 70th year as a restaurant, Milton Inn offers upscale American fare in a beautiful 18th-century fieldstone building that was once an inn.

Nacho Mama’s

2 W. Pennsylvania Ave., Towson, (410) 673-0069, mamasmd.com/NachosSite $$, L, D, P

A county outpost for the sombrero-wearing Mr. Boh and a popular Tex-Mex menu. Giant hubcap margaritas, tequilas, burritos, enchiladas, salads, and more.

Noodle Charm

1220 E. Joppa Road #108, Towson, (410) 494-8777, noodlecharm.com $, L, D, P

In keeping with the Bangkok-style approach, the menu offers inexpensive, quickly prepared noodle soups and rice dishes bursting with assertive tastes such as Thai chilies, peanut sauce, coconut, and curry.

Key

  • $: Average entree price is at or below $10.
  • $$: Average entree price is $10-$20.
  • $$$: Average entree price is $20+.
  • B: Breakfast.
  • L: Lunch.
  • D: Dinner.
  • BR: Brunch on weekends.
  • BYOB: The restaurant allows you to bring your own booze.
  • P: On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
  • OUT: Outdoor dining in season. It could be anything from a few tables on the sidewalk to a dedicated deck.
  • 10 p.m.: Serves food after 10 p.m. on a regular basis. Many restaurants serve until 11 p.m. on Saturdays, but spots that get this designation go beyond that.
  • R: Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
  • DV: Delivery for a limited area, including restaurants that deliver through a web-based service such as OrderUp or Amazon Prime Now.

One Dish Cuisine

8001 Hillsborough Road, Ellicott City, (443) 759-6344, onedishcuisine.com $$, L, D, P

If you have family or friends with food allergies, One Dish is a must-visit. The entire facility is free of gluten, oats, soy, egg, fish, shellfish, sesame, peanuts, and tree nuts. That doesn’t mean there’s not a lot on the menu. Choose from pizzas, hot and cold sandwiches, salads, sweets, and more.

The Oregon Grille

1201 Shawan Road, Hunt Valley, (410) 771-0505, theoregongrille.com $$$, L, D, BR, P, R

Romantic ambiance in a stone farmhouse where you can order a nice array of favorites, from the veal rib chop to chimichurri swordfish and black truffle macaroni and cheese. Fireplaces abound, and the wine list is something special.

Red Brick Station

8149 Honeygo Blvd., White Marsh, (410) 931-7827, redbrickstation.com $$, L, D, P

Located on The Avenue in White Marsh, Red Brick Station is an independently owned brewpub that serves up English-style pub fare. Enjoy a pint of award-winning Avenue Ale while tucking into a plate of Yorkshire pudding or bangers and mash.

Smoke

574 Cranbrook Road, Cockeysville, (410) 891-8515, facebook.com/hickorysmokedgoodness $$, L, D, P

This isn’t your classic barbecue joint—chef Josh White, who appeared on the TV show “Restaurant Startup” in 2016, is serving up some intelligent, modern interpretations of barbecue that’ll leave you drooling.

Suburban House

1700 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 484-7775, suburbanhousedeli.com $$, B, L, D, BR, P

This Pikesville landmark is the place to see how matzo ball soup, chopped liver, smoked salmon and whitefish, latkes, blintzes, Reubens, rainbow cake, and all other manner of Jewish delicacies are done correctly.

Villagio Café

6805 York Road, Towson, (410) 372-2200, villagiocafe.net $$, L, D

This delightful new Persian restaurant, located in old Stoneleigh Bakery on York Road, serves up flavorful, well-cooked kebabs and stews. Kebabs are its specialty, but you will not be disappointed in its tasty appetizers.

Woodfire Kitchen

17114 York Road, Hereford, (443) 491-3505, wfkitchen.com $$, L, D, BR, P

Farm-to-table fare finally came to Hereford with the opening of Woodfire Kitchen in 2015. The burgers and brick-oven pizzas here are casual but intelligently crafted.

La Food Marketa

E. Brady Robinson/For City Paper

Copyright © 2018, Baltimore City Paper
45°