Searching for an oasis in the Central Baltimore Mexican-food desert

Lobo's Carry Out

218 N. Liberty St. (410) 727-2727

It is with the same shame that some men must feel as they slink toward the Block with urges they can't satisfy elsewhere that we occasionally creep up to the Chipotle on corporate corner to fulfill our desire for a burrito in central Baltimore, which, though not actually a food desert, is a Mexican-food desert, which, to us, can sometimes seem almost as bad. So, we were nearly ecstatic when Lobo's Carry Out opened up on Liberty Street a month ago. Lobo's is one of those typical downtown carryout joints that tries to do everything, serving cheesesteak, burgers, sandwiches, hot dogs, pizza, wings, and chicken alfredo. But we've ignored all that and gone straight for the Mexican food. The burritos ($6 apiece) come with rice, sour cream, cheese, beans, and either beef, chicken, or sausage. Like most places in town, there is a little too much rice. But if you get a side of beans ($1.50), you can fill it out right. And it's even better with avocado-actually very good guacamole ($1.50). We're especially fond of the chicken burrito. The sausage tasted like frozen Jimmy Dean breakfast sausage when we were hoping for chorizo. The golden tacos ($6) are the American-style hard-shelled tacos, but the Mexican tacos ($6) come with carne asada or al pastor on delicious tortillas with a garnish of radish and slices of lime. The meat can be a bit chewy, but it is flavorful. If Lobo's quit trying to do everything and decided to do Mexican food well, they could own the downtown lunch scene. As it is, they're pretty damn good.

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