Best Mediterranean: Gnocco

3734 Fleet St., (443) 449-6540,

This nearly flawless spot Gnocco in Brewer’s Hill, which opened in the summer of 2016 by Chef Brian Lavin, revels in the Mediterranean: 10 or so antipasti, plump fried oysters drizzled in garlicky tzatziki over a bed of fennel salad, creamy grilled octopus tentacles brightened by a smear of fruity ajo blanco, veal sweetbreads, razor clams, hot fried ricotta donuts, lamb ragu served with pappardelle made from farro, fresh artichoke agnolotti bursting with goat cheese and redolent of cipollini onion, ricotta cavatelli with toasted walnuts and rapini chopped fine enough to look like parsley; we could go on. Oh, and service-wise, one of the most pleasurable dining experiences in the city.

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