Best Modern Italian: Aggio

614 Water St., (410) 528-0200,

When Aggio opened in 2014, we compared its spongy garlic bread with whipped ricotta and lush mortadella pate amuse- bouches to foreplay. Two years later, and we’re still hot and bothered over celebrity chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Italian stallion of a restaurant. Consistently satisfying dishes like the tonnarelli nero with blue crab, squid ink, uni, jalapeño, and pepperoni crumb keep us coming back for more. Aggio sets the mood with every morsel. From the creamy burrata antipasti to secondi dishes like branzino with zucchini, the sensuality of eating an Aggio meal is undeniable.

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