527 E. Belvedere Ave., Belvedere Square, (410) 464-1944, grandcrubaltimore.com
There has to be an explanation for why the new operators of Grand Cru have done what they’ve done to Grand Cru, a sweet and friendly wine bar at Belvedere Square. We think it must have something to do with a new reality competition show (that we’ve entirely made up) called “Ruin This Place,” in which team of contestants must take a successful joint, figure out what people loved about it, and then replace it with something like the opposite. In the case of Grand Cru, the contestants expertly discerned that Grand Cru was loved for its idiosyncrasies, warmth, and humor, stripped it all away, and replaced it with dead air. That has to be what happened, because no one would do have done it on purpose.