Best New Appetizer: The Aguachile at Clavel

225 W. 23rd St., (301) 848-2849,

This is the best thing we’ve put in our mouth all year. There isn’t a false moment at Clavel, the crazily popular new Remington taqueria and mezcaleria from Lane Harlan. The tacos have won over skeptics from Texas and SoCal, and the joint jumps with good gritty energy. The aguachile, a simple ceviche of fresh shrimp and cool cucumber slices in a spicy cilantro pesto, goes beyond. It wakes you up and stirs your senses, like a good appetizer should. It makes you want to eat more, know more, and live better.

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