Best Lipstick On a Pig

City Paper

1023 W. 36th St., (410) 467-4707,

The times sure are a-changin’ up in Hampden. A once-blue-collar neighborhood is suddenly a haven for trendy boutiques offering antiques and hipster chic and bougie restaurants. What is an old dive bar to do? If you’re Zissimos, the answer is to erect a garish new facade, with a big silver sign featuring faux lamp post lights, as a half-assed attempt to keep up with the well-heeled Joneses. It almost looks like they were taken by a fly-by-night snake oil salesman billing himself as the next Jon Taffer. The interior, we’re happy to report, is the same loveable heap it has always been.

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