Best Bagels

1500 Reisterstown Road #211, (410) 415-7001,

If you've lived in New York for any period of time and earned your Bagel Credentials, you know they come in two types: The denser, doughy variety is classic, the kind made by NYC standard-bearer H&H Bagels, who distribute their goods to every decent deli and bodega in the city. The other is the lighter, more cake-y variety, and while there are a few New York places that do this well (Absolute Bagels on 107th Street, for one), it is generally the domain of your standard Safeway, Giant, Dunkin' Donuts crap. In Baltimore, the closest you'll get to the real deal is Goldberg's in Pikesville, where they bake awesomely dense, fresh bagels every day. It's kosher, so don't go ordering bacon, egg, and cheese on your bagel. You don't need all that anyway. Try the everything bagel-crucially, they put the seasonings on both sides (come on Baltimore, how hard is that?)-with plain cream cheese and maybe a slice of tomato. If you go plain, get it toasted with lox spread. Damn, that's good. And remember, Goldberg's doesn't roll (dough) on shabbos (Saturday).

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