Best Fancy Restaurant

2010 Clipper Park Road #126, (410) 464-8000,

Spike Gjerde's six-year-old restaurant has grown to be a veritable institution in the city's farm-to-table landscape: No one else does it quite as elegantly. And when you've determined to spend a sizable chunk of change on a nice dinner, the location, atmosphere, and food here make the choice feel merited. A stroll through the repurposed mill/office park seems-almost bizarrely-romantic and posh; it's hard to get a seat and yet it doesn't feel pretentious; the food you order, whether it be fig leaf-wrapped fluke or a barbecued chicken from the Eastern Shore, tastes like nothing else you can get in Baltimore. A worthwhile expenditure.

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