Red Star Bar and Grill

906 S. Wolfe St., (410) 675-0212,

Cocktail drinkers will find several fine establishments in Baltimore that serve a formidable Old Fashioned mixed the right way. W.C. Harlan offers a fine one that starts off smooth and finishes with a slightly bitter flourish. Rye's Old Fashioned, too, is a nice one, and those tending bar will prepare it always with Buffalo Trace, a decent bourbon, if you don't ask for something grittier (Knob Creek) or something more mellow (Woodford Reserve). For our money-about $10-the best Old Fashioned to be drunk is at Red Star in Fells Point. A cherry and orange peel muddled generously, but not to a pulp; a respectable amount of sugar added after; the bourbon of your choice; and then the contents of the glass swirled a few times within a room temperature cocktail shaker. The result one Sunday night in August? A damn good drink.

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