206 W. Saratoga St., (410) 727-3378, kristospizza.com

A group of crusty punk kids stood out on the sidewalk in front of Kristo's Pizza waiting for their food because the carry-out joint only had room enough for one or two to stand and no seats. Though it was a chilly evening, the door was open to allow the plumes of grease smoke a means of escape. Until last year, what was then called Kristo's Carry Out served "Indian and American" food, as the sign still indicates. But when it came under new management, they started serving pizza, wings, and sandwiches. We decided to do our best to split the difference and ordered the buffalo pizza (12-inch for $13.95), a thickish-crust pizza with buffalo sauce, chopped chicken, and bleu cheese. The whole thing was a gloppy mess, falling apart as we tried to pick it up-but it was a delicious, almost glorious, gloppy mess. (We can imagine that if one were stoned, one could spend a whole night rhapsodizing over this.) The french fries ($1.95 small), on the other hand, were underwhelming. Kristo's also advertises liquor by the bottle (Jameson, $22.99 for a fifth) and beer by the 30-pack (Budweiser, $19.99). Located on what we think is one of the coolest blocks in Baltimore, Kristo's will definitely see us again.

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