Trinacria

406 N. Paca St., trinacriabaltimore.com, (410) 685-7285

The hot links have the red string, the guys behind the counter will tell you, though "link" seems a misnomer for a sausage that can run to nearly a half-pound on its own. The sweet sausage, speckled with fennel, is tied in white. Either makes a great sandwich, grilled and slathered with onions and peppers, but we like to crumble the sauteed sausage meat into lasagna or into soup with a handful of kale. You always see customers at Trinacria's counter walking away with a butcher's paper-wrapped package of sausage for dinner or the freezer. Count us among them.

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