The gyro here might even top Never on Sunday's. It's the meat, Pita Pan delivers.

Pita Pan

7722 Harford Road, Parkville, (410) 661-0684

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Here in Mount Vernon, home to the City Paper offices, we’re lucky enough to be blessed with a solid source of Middle Eastern fast or fast-ish food every few blocks or so: Shiraz, Shapiro’s Café, Never on Sunday, and, anytime now, a new University Market. Parkville/Hamilton/North Baltimore isn’t quite so lucky; a gyro done right remains a more elusive prey. And so, on a recent afternoon, Parkville’s Pita Pan caught our eye, at least in some part because it’s called Pita Pan. The menu looks an awful lot like Never on Sunday’s: subs, sandwiches, pizza, french-fry concoctions, and Greek food. And, save for some shredded iceberg lettuce we had to scrape off, the gyro here might even top Never on Sunday’s. It’s the meat: Pita Pan delivers thick, not-too-greasy chunks of lamb with seasonings that rise out of the mix in multiple dimensions, whereas sometimes a more run-of-the-mill gyro can seem a bit more the flavor equivalent of a Magic Eye painting, a 2D surface of salt suggesting something more. For about $8, it came with an order of serviceable fries and a small Greek salad, which really could have used an olive. Pita Pan’s probably not worth too far of a trip, but still a plenty worthy stop.

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