Wines

La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites brings je ne sais quoi to Canton

La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites brings je ne sais quoi to Canton

Where to find somewhat traditional French food in Baltimore? It's a perpetual question with a few easy answers (Petit Louis and Marie-Louise Bistro, to name two), but not many choices. The latest attempt to fill the gap is La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites (2903 O'Donnell St., [667] 212-2112, bistrolafolie.com), Bill Irwin's new bistro in the heart of Canton.

If you're looking for a certain kind of French experience that embodies classic technique or chic elegance, this isn't it. The restaurant, last home to the Tavern on the Square, still offers outdoor seating and opens its doors onto O'Donnell Street, where motorcycles growl and sputter as they pass and chatty...

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