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Restaurants

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  • High Voltaggio in Power Plant

    High Voltaggio in Power Plant
    It begins with a wisp of a breadstick shot through with fennel seed. Brittle and hard between your teeth, it shatters with just a little pressure, tasting like taralli, that chubby Italian pretzel-like snack, though this version is much more lithe and slender. Soon after, there’s bread—a spongy, garlicky, two-inch-thick hunk of focaccia—and a plate with two small pastel mounds, one milk-white, the other soft pink, like an icing rosebud. White reveals itself to be whipped ricotta (half cow’s milk, half sheep’s milk, you’re told) laced with the essence of lemon. Pink is salty, hammy, lush, the best mortadella you’ve ever had. Pureed into a paté, the pork is drizzled with pistachio oil, in an echo of the nuts that normally stud the sliced lunchmeat. You begin to get excited about what might follow.
  • The Peaceful Path

    The Peaceful Path
    The kitchen at Collington Square School is closed. That’s not something a chef wants to hear right before teaching a cooking class for about 15 elementary school kids, but this setback doesn’t phase Ihsan Baha-Umbra Bey, or Chef Bey, as...

    Parmesan Zucchini Fries

    Parmesan Zucchini Fries
    Crispy, salty French fries seem to be de rigeur in late-night diners, but, to tell the truth, I can take or leave regular French fries (sweet potato fries are different—I pretty much always take those, but they’re hard to find in most diners)....

    Comings and Goings

    Comings and Goings
    •The Karzai family—owners of The Helmand, Tapas Teatro, and b. Bistro—know a thing or two about running a successful restaurant. So when they announced plans to open a new place in the former location of The Chesapeake, excitement was...

    Farm to Grill

    Farm to Grill
    Farm-to-table restaurants are noble pursuits. When done properly, buying produce from local farms helps out small local businesses while reconnecting diners with produce and varieties of meat that they might not regularly try (heirloom tomatoes, bison,...