Greene Turtle's tasty house beer, Shell Raiser

Greene Turtle's tasty house beer, Shell Raiser

Since City Paper is Baltimore’s Most Cynical Alternative Weekly, expectations weren’t exactly elevated when we arrived at the Arundel Mills Corporate Park on a cloudy Thursday to taste what The City That Drinks would consider an oxymoron: a proprietary craft beer on tap at the Greene Turtle. It was with bemusement and a slight aftertaste of apprehension that we got out of the beer-mobile to try the new “house” brew on launch day earlier this month. Based on our decades-old experience with this franchise, we were expecting a Miller Lite with an infusion of Axe body spray and Lax Bro essence.

Times have changed. Ten years ago, if you told us...