Food Features

Ice To Meet You: Charm City gets you ice, the old-fashioned way

She calls them "the ding-a-lings." Not her funny relatives or the nosy neighbor lady down the street. It's industry endearment for the guys who drive the snowball and ice cream trucks that cruise summertime Baltimore to bring icy treats and—instead of the tinkling bells of once upon a time—incessant,...

  • Dog Eat Dog: Two food spots for dog lovers

    Dog Eat Dog: Two food spots for dog lovers

    In honor of this year's Pets Issue, we wanted to highlight a few of Baltimore's dog-themed and dog-friendly eating spots. Bone appetit! (Sorry) Kooper's Chowhound Burger Wagon, (410) 563-5423, brgrwagon.com Thursday is Koopers Day at City Paper, The Sun, the Transit Administration, and elsewhere...

  • Butchers Hill Society offers good food, but isn't quite up to par

    Butchers Hill Society offers good food, but isn't quite up to par

    "Are you from the neighborhood?" asked the woman, gray-haired, fuschia-sweatered, from the table behind us. She had already been greeted by other diners passing through the narrow room while she finished her meal, and now, preparing to leave, she was warm while making our acquaintance. When we...

  • Eat 2017

    Eat 2017

    Baltimore is a special kind of food town, with favorites and staples that go beyond our steamed crabs and unwavering loyalty to Old Bay seasoning on anything and everything. You can also get a chicken box smothered in salt and pepper and ketchup, a meaty sandwich piled too high with pit beef, endless...

  • The Elephant brings the Brass Elephant into now

    The Elephant brings the Brass Elephant into now

    There’s nothing “on trend” about The Elephant. There aren’t any made-to-look-old Edison bulbs (well, I did spy one in an old chandelier, but I’m pretty sure it’s original), repurposed barn wood, or dolled-up plates of Korean-fried chicken. But what they do have—despite prices that give some sticker...

  • DJ Trillnatured talks DJing, Indian food, the Crown, and more

    DJ Trillnatured talks DJing, Indian food, the Crown, and more

    City Paper is starting something new for our Eats & Drinks section: conversations with Baltimoreans where—via the places they eat, drink, and hang out—they show us what this city means to them. The interview below, with DJ Jessica Hyman, is the second in this occasional series. One important thing...

  • La Food Marketa offers party-like atmosphere and a few less straightforward food options

    La Food Marketa offers party-like atmosphere and a few less straightforward food options

    On a mid-week night, La Food Marketa (2620 Quarry Lake Drive, [410] 415-0606, lafoodmarketa.com) is a blur of bright light and conversation. Headlights beam through the floor-to-ceiling windows along the front of the restaurant, as cars wind their way through the service roads and parking lots...

  • On the fear of losing a local institution: Sunny's Subs in Northwood Plaza

    On the fear of losing a local institution: Sunny's Subs in Northwood Plaza

    Six months removed from the Y2K apocalypse that never was, Nelly burst onto the scene with 'Country Grammar,' a smash hit with a catchy hook that was easily the song of the summer. On Thursday mornings I would scrape together money to get something to eat after summer camp was through for the day...

  • Iconic Baltimore gay bar The Eagle is finally back—and revamped

    Iconic Baltimore gay bar The Eagle is finally back—and revamped

    The Baltimore Eagle has finally landed in Station North. The waiting has been palpable, at least for the queer folks who have watched their bars and clubs close one by one as assimilation and capitalism do their ugly work. When construction delays and a shake up on the liquor board put the Eagle's...

  • Crunk-A-Bee's: In praise of Applebee's in White Marsh

    Crunk-A-Bee's: In praise of Applebee's in White Marsh

    Parenthood, especially when it's coupled with the energy-draining stressors of work responsibilities, and marriage, makes you do strange things—things that the single, childless version of you might have turned your nose up at. For me, it means that about once a week, my husband and I slip off...

  • R. House in Remington serves pretty decent, pretty expensive food, lacks conviviality

    R. House in Remington serves pretty decent, pretty expensive food, lacks conviviality

    Everybody's talking about R. House, the new Remington food hall, like it's the World's Fair or something. Not even so much the "Have you eaten there yet and how is it?" chat but a giddy, urgent, desperate, "Have you seen it? Have you been there? And what have you heard about it from others?" Meanwhile,...

  • The Room in Mount Vernon lives up to its 'nothing fancy, just really good' slogan

    The Room in Mount Vernon lives up to its 'nothing fancy, just really good' slogan

    The week between Christmas and New Year's is strange. If you celebrate, you are recovering from the frenetic, garish, in-your-face cheeriness of Christmas and even if you don't, the world gets quieter and the streets are easier to navigate, with many people off from work or away celebrating with...

  • Top Ten New Restaurants of 2016

    Top Ten New Restaurants of 2016

    1. Gunther & Co. (3650 Toone St., [443] 869-6874, eatatgunther.com) When I walked through the doors of Gunther & Co., the first large-scale restaurant that has opened in Canton in a while, I was taken aback with how owners Nancy Hart and Jerry Trice (who’s also the chef) reimagined the former Gunther...

  • Top Ten Baltimore Dishes of 2016

    Top Ten Baltimore Dishes of 2016

    1. Fettuccini with lemon and pistachios at Hersh’s (1843 Light St., [443] 438-4948, hershs.com) There are many factors that may be keeping you from discovering Hersh’s pasta section. Maybe it’s the fact that the comfortable neighborhood joint is hidden away on the southside, requiring a drive past...

  • Top Ten Baltimore-Area Drinks and Brews of 2016

    Top Ten Baltimore-Area Drinks and Brews of 2016

    1. Chardonnay Barrel Belgian style ale by Evolution Craft Brewing Company (201 E. Vine St., Salisbury, [443] 260-2337, evolutioncraftbrewing.com) If you’re not turning your drive to the beach into a brewery crawl (with a DD, of course) you’re missing out. Eastern Shore Brewing in St. Michaels,...

  • Why Roy Rogers needs to bring its 'holy trio' to Baltimore

    Why Roy Rogers needs to bring its 'holy trio' to Baltimore

    Greetings, Fast Foodie readers. Welcome back after a bit of a long (and unintentional) hiatus. In the time since my last column, KFC brought back its Nashville Hot Chicken, Taco Bell gave away Doritos Locos Tacos because Francisco Lindor stole a base in the World Series, president-elect Donald...

  • Wet City offers unique brew selection

    Wet City offers unique brew selection

    I'm not really a beer drinker, says one of my dining companions. Let me see if I can change your mind, replies Dion, our charming server at Wet City (223 W. Chase St, [443] 873-6699, wetcitybrewing.com). Which he did, after quizzing my friend briefly on what flavors she found appealing (she affirmed...

  • Unpacking the Peppadew: What's real, what's fake and does it matter?

    Unpacking the Peppadew: What's real, what's fake and does it matter?

    We cracked the Peppadew code. Come at us, coppers. Back in March we went on a quest to discover what makes the Peppadew tick, where it comes from, why it's patented, and how we could bootleg them ("Thugs," Armed Guards and the Black Market for Delicious Patented Pickled Peppers). We had to do it...

  • Dovecote Café looks to create strong local bonds

    Dovecote Café looks to create strong local bonds

    Bright, sunny, and inviting, Dovecote Café (2501 Madison Ave., [443] 961-8677, dovecotecafe.com), located in Reservoir Hill, might not look revolutionary, but it is. Since Aisha Pew, Aisha's mother Gilda Pew, and Aisha's partner Cole opened Dovecote a little over a year ago, the eatery has served...

  • Daniela Pasta and Pastries moves into a bigger space, still delivers

    Daniela Pasta and Pastries moves into a bigger space, still delivers

    In 2011, Sardinian-born Daniela Useli opened a small storefront carryout on 36th Street in Hampden. Soon, the neighborhood was swooning over her baked goods like sfogliatelle, the flaky pastries sometimes known as "lobster tails," and cream-filled bomboloni doughnuts. Patrons folded themselves...

  • A taste of Zion Church's Sour Beef dinner

    A taste of Zion Church's Sour Beef dinner

    For a host of reasons both politico-historical and culinary, German food has been so assimilated into this country that no one in Baltimore would go to German restaurants if they were still around, which is why almost none of them are. That's meant hard times for some of us; in my family, Thanksgiving...

  • The High Life: On CBD

    The High Life: On CBD

    The Maryland Medical Cannabis Commission is severely fucked up and not in a good way, like stoned, but like someone you see that is about to tip over but miraculously remains standing at an impossible angle. The problem is, people suffer while these fuckers nod. First, they get too many applicants,...

  • Failed amendments to zoning bill would have put restrictions on booze, and they may come back

    Failed amendments to zoning bill would have put restrictions on booze, and they may come back

    A bill that would rewrite the city's zoning code passed last week, but not without drama. A series of amendments, proposed by Councilman Nick Mosby and passed by The Land Use and Transportation committee, would have made it virtually impossible to open a bar or liquor store—and probably impossible...

  • Pikesville Rye has been discontinued

    Pikesville Rye has been discontinued

    On a bottom shelf in the Wine Source, below the good whiskeys and the merely tolerable ones, is a small card with a tombstone on it. Beneath the RIP is a picture of the Pikesville Rye white label and to the side of this tombstone is a message that reads: "Pikesville 3-year 80 proof Rye has been...

  • Devin Allen eats and drinks his way through Baltimore

    Devin Allen eats and drinks his way through Baltimore

    City Paper is starting something new for our Eats & Drinks section: conversations with Baltimoreans where—via the places they eat, drink, and hang out—they show us what this city means to them. The interview below, with photographer Devin Allen, begins this occasional series. Photographer Devin...

  • La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites brings je ne sais quoi to Canton

    La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites brings je ne sais quoi to Canton

    Where to find somewhat traditional French food in Baltimore? It's a perpetual question with a few easy answers (Petit Louis and Marie-Louise Bistro, to name two), but not many choices. The latest attempt to fill the gap is La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites (2903 O'Donnell St., [667] 212-2112, bistrolafolie.com),...

  • Two Decades of Brewer's Artistry: Drawing national attention but remaining a favorite local hangout

    Two Decades of Brewer's Artistry: Drawing national attention but remaining a favorite local hangout

    Making beer is an art of compromise and tough decisions. One of the first big decisions Volker Stewart and his partners had to make, as they prepared to open the Brewer's Art, was cutting up their brand new 10 hectaliter, steam-jacketed, two-vessel brewhouse, a showpiece which they had bought in...

  • Taste Testing Fall Beers: Our panel of nine staffers tried six local brews.

    Taste Testing Fall Beers: Our panel of nine staffers tried six local brews.

    As City Paper staffers sat down to sample a pumpkin beer for this very scientific, very official taste test of six local fall beers, someone at the table asked a simple-but-necessary question: Why? Why do brewers make pumpkin beers fall after fall? Nobody really seemed to know. But the general...

  • A vegetarian's take on the Broadway Diner

    A vegetarian's take on the Broadway Diner

    I'm a regular at Broadway Diner (6501 Eastern Ave., [410] 631-5666, broadwaydiner1.com), the silver, shimmering restaurant at the corner of Eastern Avenue and Kane Street. It's a large, classic American diner with all the traditional food and a variety of options. This is a place made up of the...

  • In defense of the Lima-A-Rita and in praise of Lil' Kim

    In defense of the Lima-A-Rita and in praise of Lil' Kim

    For those who haven't had the pleasure, a Lime-A-Rita is a mix of Bud Light beer and, according to the Anheuser-Busch brewing company, "exciting margarita flavors." They come in tall, white cans and are decorated with an illustration of a cold, refreshing margarita. In addition to the more traditional...

  • Tradition is key at Michael's on Eastern Avenue

    Tradition is key at Michael's on Eastern Avenue

    Michael's Steak & Lobster House (6209 Eastern Ave., [410] 633-6485, michaelscrabcakes.com) is the sort of place where everyone carries on some kind of tradition. Doug Heisey Sr. sits at the bar peeling steamed shrimp, flanked by his two sons, Doug Jr. and Rick. They're both tearing into the filet...

  • Hampden's Paulie Gee's eases into business

    Hampden's Paulie Gee's eases into business

    Oh, Paulie Gee's (3535 Chestnut Ave., pauliegee.com/hampden), what took you so long? For months—nay, years—Hampden has been waiting for your wood-burning ovens, your Cinderella-like makeover of the Hampden Republican Club, and yes, your pizza. We wondered, Would you ever be ready for hungry guests?...

  • Gorging on comfort food at Breaking Bread

    Gorging on comfort food at Breaking Bread

    Returning from three days of camping at Fields Fest, I needed some serious hangover food. Not for a booze-induced hangover per se (though that was certainly part of it), but more like the in-need-of-relief-from-living-off-Cheez-Its-and-dried-salami-and-getting-four-hours-of-sleep-a-night kind of...

  • The Peach Cake has been a Baltimore staple for over a century

    The Peach Cake has been a Baltimore staple for over a century

    It may not seem like it now, but Baltimore was once a booming peach town. An article in The Sun from July 20, 1886 estimated that 2.581 million baskets of the fruit, grown on Maryland's Eastern Shore and in Delaware, would travel through the port. Peaches from the Delmarva peninsula were then shipped...

  • Baby's On Fire serves up more than lunch

    Baby's On Fire serves up more than lunch

    There's no shortage of places in Mount Vernon to get a good cup of coffee and a sandwich. So what makes Baby's On Fire (1010 Morton St., [443] 885-9892, babysonfire.com) such a welcome and necessary addition to the neighborhood is the second part of its business model: It's also a record store....

  • Making hand-cranked ice cream—and passing the torch

    Making hand-cranked ice cream—and passing the torch

    I was digging around in my dump of a basement the other day and caught a glimpse of aqua-blue fiberglass. It was the hand-cranking ice cream maker that my mom had recently handed over to me—a sort of changing of the guard from when she was mistress of our family's summer vacation and its ice cream...

  • Roland Park's Namaste will please vegetarians and meat-eaters alike

    Roland Park's Namaste will please vegetarians and meat-eaters alike

    "Namaste." The yoga-associated greeting (translated approximately as "the spirit in me salutes the spirit in you") seems an appropriate name for North Baltimore's newest Indian restaurant. From the staff's warm greetings as you enter to their sincere thank-you's as you leave later with a satisfied...

  • Cheap Eats: Mick O'Shea's

    Cheap Eats: Mick O'Shea's

    328 N. Charles St., (410) 539-7504, mickosheas.com Last year, City Paper heard through the grapevine that a few people over at Irish pub Mick O'Shea's were miffed because we awarded them a "Best Chicken Tenders" award last year. Of all the delicious, artful versions of bar food Mick O'Shea's makes—including...

  • Mt. Vernon's Marie Louise Bistro crafts a delicate steak tartare

    Mt. Vernon's Marie Louise Bistro crafts a delicate steak tartare

    When I was a teenager growing up in Brussels, I had a routine on my way to a Wednesday, after school ballet class. For about 80 francs ($2), I'd order a massive sandwich from a bistro with a take-out window near Rue de Boucher, prop myself on some nearby steps, wolf down the food while people-watching,...

  • The High Life: Pot for Pain

    The High Life: Pot for Pain

    With a little help from weed, Baltimore Raven Eugene Monroe is tearing through NFL hypocrisies. Last month, the Ravens' offensive tackle kicked off a campaign opposing NFL drug testing for pot, demanding the league consider using cannabinoids to treat chronic pain, and donated $80,000 to the University...

  • Huck's American Craft has multi-regional focus

    Huck's American Craft has multi-regional focus

    So you're not going to be able to take that road trip you've been planning for this summer—the one where you eat your way across the country, sampling cheese curds in Wisconsin, fried ravioli in St. Louis, Frito pie in Texas (granted that would be a lot of driving). No matter. It's possible to...

  • Brewers Hill gets a new restaurant in the old Gunther Brewing Company building

    Brewers Hill gets a new restaurant in the old Gunther Brewing Company building

    The first thing you notice when you walk into Gunther & Co.—the 7,600 square foot Brewers Hill restaurant that opened last Friday—is how massive the undertaking must have been for owners Nancy Mola and Jerry Trice to whip the place into shape. It's huge. Located in the old boiler rooms of the original...

  • The Cult of Silver Queen: Contemplating corn and the summer meal

    The Cult of Silver Queen: Contemplating corn and the summer meal

    I am a little embarrassed to say I come from a thieving family–corn thieving to be precise. While visiting us in central Virginia, my grandma Helen got wind of a cornfield on the other side of a patch of woods at the end of our street. I had come across it while out roaming on my Miss America bicycle,...

  • Straddling the Barbecue Divide

    Straddling the Barbecue Divide

    I.The Urban Grill Barbecuing in Baltimore is a communal affair, like much of city living when the weather gets warm and people spill out onto their stoops or porches, setting up lawn chairs on the sidewalks, perching on car hoods to monitor kids who wobble up and down the sidewalk on bikes, barricading...

  • Fast Foodie: A review of the Jalapeño Fresco Spicy Chicken sandwich at Wendy's

    Fast Foodie: A review of the Jalapeño Fresco Spicy Chicken sandwich at Wendy's

    My only encounter with a ghost pepper came when a friend tried to trick me into eating one. When I resisted, he took a bite to give me the ol' "See, it's not so bad," and then started coughing profusely. Snot, eventually followed by blood, came out of his nose. And this guy loves spicy things! ...

  • The Silver Queen of Harford Road

    The Silver Queen of Harford Road

    If you weren't looking for the Silver Queen Café (5429 Harford Road, [443] 345-2020, silverqueencafe.com), you'd easily miss it. Located on a block of Harford Road most recognizable for being home to the CVS and Hamilton Vacuum and Janitorial Supply, the nondescript storefront (formerly Herb &...

  • Chicken Talk: Station North and the ever-elusive chicken box

    Chicken Talk: Station North and the ever-elusive chicken box

    Last week, Station North Arts and Entertainment District commemorated the demolition of 1 W. North Ave.—formerly known as The Station North Chicken Box, an arts venue, and before that, New York Fried Chicken. The Chicken Box is being knocked down to make way for the Stavros Niarchos Foundation...

  • Cosima opens in Hampden's Mill #1

    Cosima opens in Hampden's Mill #1

    Before my recent dinner at Cosima (3000 Falls Road, Mill No. 1, [443] 708-7352, cosimamill1.com), I had never met Donna Crivello, the restaurant's proprietor. But I was familiar with the work of her hands—both through the various incarnations of her signature eponymous restaurants (now winnowed...

  • Staff Picks for cannabis-induced cravings

    Staff Picks for cannabis-induced cravings

    Goodfella City Limits Sports Bar If you’re ever driving around stoned and suddenly end up in a place where beautiful, identical people race by in Day-Glo ‘active wear,’ you might be lost in Temple of the Cult of Under Armour, Locust Point. And now you’re hungry. You can settle for the amazing but...

  • Bottega surprises diners with humble knock-out dishes

    Bottega surprises diners with humble knock-out dishes

    For weeks, I'd been keeping an eye on Bottega's (1729 Maryland Ave., [443] 708-5709, bottega1729.com) Facebook page, watching as the photos of the restaurant's daily chalkboard menu listed the day's specials. My heart fluttered at the thought of a bitter puntarella salad with anchovy and capers...

  • Date with IKEA: Swedish cuisine in White Marsh

    Date with IKEA: Swedish cuisine in White Marsh

    Believe nothing less: the restaurant at IKEA—the merciful asylum of that Swedish embassy along Honeygo Boulevard in White Marsh—is simply one of the most pleasant, affordable, and accommodating places to eat in Baltimore County. I, for one, am not an IKEA fetishist—you'll find me at the soft opening...

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