Food Features

  • Dovecote Café looks to create strong local bonds

    Dovecote Café looks to create strong local bonds

    Bright, sunny, and inviting, Dovecote Café (2501 Madison Ave., [443] 961-8677, dovecotecafe.com), located in Reservoir Hill, might not look revolutionary, but it is. Since Aisha Pew, Aisha's mother Gilda Pew, and Aisha's partner Cole opened Dovecote a little over a year ago, the eatery has served...

  • Daniela Pasta and Pastries moves into a bigger space, still delivers

    Daniela Pasta and Pastries moves into a bigger space, still delivers

    In 2011, Sardinian-born Daniela Useli opened a small storefront carryout on 36th Street in Hampden. Soon, the neighborhood was swooning over her baked goods like sfogliatelle, the flaky pastries sometimes known as "lobster tails," and cream-filled bomboloni doughnuts. Patrons folded themselves...

  • A taste of Zion Church's Sour Beef dinner

    A taste of Zion Church's Sour Beef dinner

    For a host of reasons both politico-historical and culinary, German food has been so assimilated into this country that no one in Baltimore would go to German restaurants if they were still around, which is why almost none of them are. That's meant hard times for some of us; in my family, Thanksgiving...

  • The High Life: On CBD

    The High Life: On CBD

    The Maryland Medical Cannabis Commission is severely fucked up and not in a good way, like stoned, but like someone you see that is about to tip over but miraculously remains standing at an impossible angle. The problem is, people suffer while these fuckers nod. First, they get too many applicants,...

  • Failed amendments to zoning bill would have put restrictions on booze, and they may come back

    Failed amendments to zoning bill would have put restrictions on booze, and they may come back

    A bill that would rewrite the city's zoning code passed last week, but not without drama. A series of amendments, proposed by Councilman Nick Mosby and passed by The Land Use and Transportation committee, would have made it virtually impossible to open a bar or liquor store—and probably impossible...

  • Pikesville Rye has been discontinued

    Pikesville Rye has been discontinued

    On a bottom shelf in the Wine Source, below the good whiskeys and the merely tolerable ones, is a small card with a tombstone on it. Beneath the RIP is a picture of the Pikesville Rye white label and to the side of this tombstone is a message that reads: "Pikesville 3-year 80 proof Rye has been...

  • Devin Allen eats and drinks his way through Baltimore

    Devin Allen eats and drinks his way through Baltimore

    City Paper is starting something new for our Eats & Drinks section: conversations with Baltimoreans where—via the places they eat, drink, and hang out—they show us what this city means to them. The interview below, with photographer Devin Allen, begins this occasional series. Photographer Devin...

  • La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites brings je ne sais quoi to Canton

    La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites brings je ne sais quoi to Canton

    Where to find somewhat traditional French food in Baltimore? It's a perpetual question with a few easy answers (Petit Louis and Marie-Louise Bistro, to name two), but not many choices. The latest attempt to fill the gap is La Folie Wine Bar & Steak Frites (2903 O'Donnell St., [667] 212-2112, bistrolafolie.com),...

  • A vegetarian's take on the Broadway Diner

    A vegetarian's take on the Broadway Diner

    I'm a regular at Broadway Diner (6501 Eastern Ave., [410] 631-5666, broadwaydiner1.com), the silver, shimmering restaurant at the corner of Eastern Avenue and Kane Street. It's a large, classic American diner with all the traditional food and a variety of options. This is a place made up of the...

  • In defense of the Lima-A-Rita and in praise of Lil' Kim

    In defense of the Lima-A-Rita and in praise of Lil' Kim

    For those who haven't had the pleasure, a Lime-A-Rita is a mix of Bud Light beer and, according to the Anheuser-Busch brewing company, "exciting margarita flavors." They come in tall, white cans and are decorated with an illustration of a cold, refreshing margarita. In addition to the more traditional...

  • Tradition is key at Michael's on Eastern Avenue

    Tradition is key at Michael's on Eastern Avenue

    Michael's Steak & Lobster House (6209 Eastern Ave., [410] 633-6485, michaelscrabcakes.com) is the sort of place where everyone carries on some kind of tradition. Doug Heisey Sr. sits at the bar peeling steamed shrimp, flanked by his two sons, Doug Jr. and Rick. They're both tearing into the filet...

  • Hampden's Paulie Gee's eases into business

    Hampden's Paulie Gee's eases into business

    Oh, Paulie Gee's (3535 Chestnut Ave., pauliegee.com/hampden), what took you so long? For months—nay, years—Hampden has been waiting for your wood-burning ovens, your Cinderella-like makeover of the Hampden Republican Club, and yes, your pizza. We wondered, Would you ever be ready for hungry guests?...

  • Gorging on comfort food at Breaking Bread

    Gorging on comfort food at Breaking Bread

    Returning from three days of camping at Fields Fest, I needed some serious hangover food. Not for a booze-induced hangover per se (though that was certainly part of it), but more like the in-need-of-relief-from-living-off-Cheez-Its-and-dried-salami-and-getting-four-hours-of-sleep-a-night kind of...

  • Gunther & Co.'s seasonal menu goes beyond local offerings

    Gunther & Co.'s seasonal menu goes beyond local offerings

    Judging by Gunther & Co.'s (3650 Toone St., [443] 869-6874, eatgunther.com) Instagram account, there are three things people already love about the three-month-old Brewer's Hill restaurant: cleverly named cocktails (a Meet the Beet-alls or a Rye'n Gosling, anyone?), oysters all ways, and the 16-foot...

  • The Venice Tavern is a bulwark against the brave new world

    The Venice Tavern is a bulwark against the brave new world

    There is a plague upon the city, creeping up from the South and the overpriced theme park that the nation's capital is fast becoming. No, it isn't the clueless Washington Post writer who makes a semi-annual migration in order to marvel at how strange it is that this provincial backwater can exist...

  • In its 10th year, Salt Tavern still offers exquisite food and welcome surprises

    In its 10th year, Salt Tavern still offers exquisite food and welcome surprises

    When Salt Tavern (2127 E. Pratt St., [410] 276-5480, salttavern.com) opened its doors in 2006, favorable reviews soon followed. Salt was awarded best new restaurant kudos that year by both the editorial staff and the readers of this paper, and since then has appeared on best restaurant lists compiled...

  • Fast Foodie: Burger King's Mac N' Cheetos are a letdown

    Fast Foodie: Burger King's Mac N' Cheetos are a letdown

    Burger King's unveiling of Mac N' Cheetos was a siren song to fast foodies everywhere. Here was one of the most promising junk food hybrids since the advent of the Doritos Locos Taco at Taco Bell: Cheetos filled with macaroni and cheese. What times we are living in (on a related note: Taco Bell...

  • Making hand-cranked ice cream—and passing the torch

    Making hand-cranked ice cream—and passing the torch

    I was digging around in my dump of a basement the other day and caught a glimpse of aqua-blue fiberglass. It was the hand-cranking ice cream maker that my mom had recently handed over to me—a sort of changing of the guard from when she was mistress of our family's summer vacation and its ice cream...

  • Roland Park's Namaste will please vegetarians and meat-eaters alike

    Roland Park's Namaste will please vegetarians and meat-eaters alike

    "Namaste." The yoga-associated greeting (translated approximately as "the spirit in me salutes the spirit in you") seems an appropriate name for North Baltimore's newest Indian restaurant. From the staff's warm greetings as you enter to their sincere thank-you's as you leave later with a satisfied...

  • Cheap Eats: Mick O'Shea's

    Cheap Eats: Mick O'Shea's

    328 N. Charles St., (410) 539-7504, mickosheas.com Last year, City Paper heard through the grapevine that a few people over at Irish pub Mick O'Shea's were miffed because we awarded them a "Best Chicken Tenders" award last year. Of all the delicious, artful versions of bar food Mick O'Shea's makes—including...

  • Mt. Vernon's Marie Louise Bistro crafts a delicate steak tartare

    Mt. Vernon's Marie Louise Bistro crafts a delicate steak tartare

    When I was a teenager growing up in Brussels, I had a routine on my way to a Wednesday, after school ballet class. For about 80 francs ($2), I'd order a massive sandwich from a bistro with a take-out window near Rue de Boucher, prop myself on some nearby steps, wolf down the food while people-watching,...

  • The High Life: Pot for Pain

    The High Life: Pot for Pain

    With a little help from weed, Baltimore Raven Eugene Monroe is tearing through NFL hypocrisies. Last month, the Ravens' offensive tackle kicked off a campaign opposing NFL drug testing for pot, demanding the league consider using cannabinoids to treat chronic pain, and donated $80,000 to the University...

  • Huck's American Craft has multi-regional focus

    Huck's American Craft has multi-regional focus

    So you're not going to be able to take that road trip you've been planning for this summer—the one where you eat your way across the country, sampling cheese curds in Wisconsin, fried ravioli in St. Louis, Frito pie in Texas (granted that would be a lot of driving). No matter. It's possible to...

  • Brewers Hill gets a new restaurant in the old Gunther Brewing Company building

    Brewers Hill gets a new restaurant in the old Gunther Brewing Company building

    The first thing you notice when you walk into Gunther & Co.—the 7,600 square foot Brewers Hill restaurant that opened last Friday—is how massive the undertaking must have been for owners Nancy Mola and Jerry Trice to whip the place into shape. It's huge. Located in the old boiler rooms of the original...

  • The Cult of Silver Queen: Contemplating corn and the summer meal

    The Cult of Silver Queen: Contemplating corn and the summer meal

    I am a little embarrassed to say I come from a thieving family–corn thieving to be precise. While visiting us in central Virginia, my grandma Helen got wind of a cornfield on the other side of a patch of woods at the end of our street. I had come across it while out roaming on my Miss America bicycle,...

  • Straddling the Barbecue Divide

    Straddling the Barbecue Divide

    I.The Urban Grill Barbecuing in Baltimore is a communal affair, like much of city living when the weather gets warm and people spill out onto their stoops or porches, setting up lawn chairs on the sidewalks, perching on car hoods to monitor kids who wobble up and down the sidewalk on bikes, barricading...

  • Fast Foodie: A review of the Jalapeño Fresco Spicy Chicken sandwich at Wendy's

    Fast Foodie: A review of the Jalapeño Fresco Spicy Chicken sandwich at Wendy's

    My only encounter with a ghost pepper came when a friend tried to trick me into eating one. When I resisted, he took a bite to give me the ol' "See, it's not so bad," and then started coughing profusely. Snot, eventually followed by blood, came out of his nose. And this guy loves spicy things! ...

  • The Silver Queen of Harford Road

    The Silver Queen of Harford Road

    If you weren't looking for the Silver Queen Café (5429 Harford Road, [443] 345-2020, silverqueencafe.com), you'd easily miss it. Located on a block of Harford Road most recognizable for being home to the CVS and Hamilton Vacuum and Janitorial Supply, the nondescript storefront (formerly Herb &...

  • Chicken Talk: Station North and the ever-elusive chicken box

    Chicken Talk: Station North and the ever-elusive chicken box

    Last week, Station North Arts and Entertainment District commemorated the demolition of 1 W. North Ave.—formerly known as The Station North Chicken Box, an arts venue, and before that, New York Fried Chicken. The Chicken Box is being knocked down to make way for the Stavros Niarchos Foundation...

  • Cosima opens in Hampden's Mill #1

    Cosima opens in Hampden's Mill #1

    Before my recent dinner at Cosima (3000 Falls Road, Mill No. 1, [443] 708-7352, cosimamill1.com), I had never met Donna Crivello, the restaurant's proprietor. But I was familiar with the work of her hands—both through the various incarnations of her signature eponymous restaurants (now winnowed...

  • Staff Picks for cannabis-induced cravings

    Staff Picks for cannabis-induced cravings

    Goodfella City Limits Sports Bar If you’re ever driving around stoned and suddenly end up in a place where beautiful, identical people race by in Day-Glo ‘active wear,’ you might be lost in Temple of the Cult of Under Armour, Locust Point. And now you’re hungry. You can settle for the amazing but...

  • Bottega surprises diners with humble knock-out dishes

    Bottega surprises diners with humble knock-out dishes

    For weeks, I'd been keeping an eye on Bottega's (1729 Maryland Ave., [443] 708-5709, bottega1729.com) Facebook page, watching as the photos of the restaurant's daily chalkboard menu listed the day's specials. My heart fluttered at the thought of a bitter puntarella salad with anchovy and capers...

  • Date with IKEA: Swedish cuisine in White Marsh

    Date with IKEA: Swedish cuisine in White Marsh

    Believe nothing less: the restaurant at IKEA—the merciful asylum of that Swedish embassy along Honeygo Boulevard in White Marsh—is simply one of the most pleasant, affordable, and accommodating places to eat in Baltimore County. I, for one, am not an IKEA fetishist—you'll find me at the soft opening...

  • Hangover Helper: Spoons Cafe

    Hangover Helper: Spoons Cafe

    24 E. Cross St., (410) 539-8395, spoonsbaltimore.com Adorned with aesthetically questionable paintings, a wooden carousel horse, and a forlorn giant spoon seated in a chair by the front window, Spoons Cafe (which CP accidentally left out of our Eat issue; our apologies) feels like the home of your...

  • Highlandtown's Snake Hill adds a twist to sausage and beer

    Highlandtown's Snake Hill adds a twist to sausage and beer

    Baltimore's new sausage and craft beer spot, Snake Hill (418 S. Clinton St., [410] 469-9003,snakehillbaltimore.com), which the owners of Johnny Rad's opened just a few months ago, is housed in the quiet corner Highlandtown spot previously occupied by the longstanding Irish Pub, and boasts the tagline:...

  • Cultured pairs cocktails and charcuterie

    Cultured pairs cocktails and charcuterie

    One of the most striking transformations to witness at Mount Vernon Marketplace since it opened in October has been the development of Cultured (520 Park Ave., [410] 409-7924, baltimorecultured.com), a charcuterie bar from chef Andrew Cole, formerly of The Other Corner Charcuterie Bar in Hampden....

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