Cheap Eats

Tacos Y Pupusas

Tacos Y PupusasThe parking lot of B&T Auto Center, 210 Reisterstown Road

There was a time when Pikesville was a thoroughly Jewish community, when Shapiro's kosher supermarket, on the corner of Old Court and Reisterstown Roads, was an institution (a Staples sits there today), down the block from the Bagel Shoppe and the best-named bakery in Baltimore history, Schmell & Azman. There are still plenty of Jewish landmarks, like the kosher megastore Seven Mile Market and Goldberg's Bagels (multi-year winner of City Paper's "Best Bagels"), but these days they mingle with places catering to the increased population of Latinos and immigrant communities. Cheap Eats has raved about Reisterstown Road rookies like Silk Road Bistro, with its delectable Uzbek dishes, and the killer jerk chicken at Island Quizine. We recently discovered a white food truck with a makeshift banner reading simply "Tacos y Pupusas." It sits in the parking lot of an auto-repair shop and across the street from a small shopping center that includes Martinez Grocery ("Tienda Latina y Panaderia"), Top Dominican Hair Salon, and Sinu Refuah Pharmacy (refuah means "healing" in Hebrew; "35 Percent off on Most Kosher Vitamins!") The woman cooking up the goods inside didn't seem to speak much English, and she confirmed that she was an immigrant from El Salvador. The truck's menu is not much longer than its name, but both the tacos and pupusas, an El Salvadoran specialty, are exquisite. Pupusas are thick, poofy corn tortillas stuffed with various fillings. We ordered the pupusas con queso y loroco because we had never had that variety before. Loroco is a flower herb native to Central America and relatively rare in these parts. The pupusas, served with a giant baggie of jalapeños, salsa, and curtido-Salvadoran coleslaw, basically-were filling and bursting with savory and spicy flavors. We had two and were beyond full but couldn't wait more than a few minutes before tearing into the perfectly seasoned tacos de pollo (pictured), each served with a delicious mound of fresh cilantro on top. Now that it has some of the best bagels and pupusas in town, Pikesville is fast becoming our favorite suburb.

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